Joybuy Insights

Permanent hair colour: how to choose the right shade and avoid unwelcome surprises

A permanent hair colour can change your hair colour for a lasting result, cover grey hair or add depth to your natural shade. However, buying a simple hair dye without checking its formula or instructions can lead to a few disappointments: a colour that is too dark, unexpected tones or not enough product for long hair.

Before choosing an at-home hair colour, it is therefore worth looking beyond the promises on the packaging and checking three practical points: whether it is compatible with your starting colour, what the kit contains and the precautions for use.

Common pitfalls of permanent hair colour

1. Confusing the colour shown with the final result

The same shade can produce very different results on blonde, light brown, previously coloured or naturally dark hair. A blonde hair colour will not necessarily turn a brown base light blonde. An auburn shade, meanwhile, can bring out particularly noticeable red tones on lighter hair.

To avoid unwelcome surprises, compare your current colour with the shade chart on the box and take previous colouring treatments into account. Permanent colour generally lightens a natural base more easily than lengths already saturated with artificial pigments.

2. Relying solely on the “ammonia-free” claim

An ammonia-free hair colour can reduce the characteristic smell of certain formulas, but this does not mean it is free from all potentially sensitising ingredients. Depending on the product, the items presented here contain dyes such as phenylenediamines, resorcinol or related compounds.

The rule remains the same whatever the product: carry out an allergy alert test 48 hours before application, even if you have previously used a similar hair dye without any problems.

3. Overlooking quantity and aftercare

One kit may not be enough for thick hair or hair that extends beyond the shoulders. Some products do, however, allow partial application and the storage of unmixed product, which can be useful for root touch-ups.

Finally, a long-lasting hair colour still requires appropriate aftercare. The post-colouring treatment supplied in the box helps detangle the hair and improve its feel. You should also space out washes with overly harsh shampoos and protect the lengths from heat.

Criteria to check before buying

The shade and your starting base

For a light brown hair dye, check whether the product is designed to create a natural, golden, mahogany or auburn light brown. Copper and red shades often change more visibly over the course of several washes. For blonde colour, check the advertised lightening level as well as the recommended starting colour.

If your priority is grey coverage, look for a clear indication on the product page or packaging. Several products in this selection claim coverage of up to 100%, but the result also depends on the porosity, density and resistance of the grey hair.

The formula and application method

A ready-to-use kit generally contains a colouring cream, developer, gloves and a treatment. A professional colour sold in a tube, by contrast, may require you to purchase an oxidising developer separately and follow a precise mixing ratio.

A no-mix format, such as that used by some pump creams, is well suited to targeted touch-ups. A non-drip texture makes at-home application easier, but it is still essential to divide the hair into sections and distribute the product evenly.

Regulatory and usage precautions

Oxidative hair colours can cause allergic reactions. Follow these precautions:

  • wear the gloves supplied or suitable gloves ;
  • do not colour your eyelashes or eyebrows ;
  • avoid applying the product to an irritated or damaged scalp ;
  • rinse immediately and thoroughly if the product comes into contact with your eyes ;
  • observe the recommended interval after a perm, straightening treatment or relaxer ;
  • follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding development time and mixing.
Recommended for : Budget-conscious beginners
Revlon Colorsilk Permanent Hair Coloring Light Auburn 53

Revlon Colorsilk Permanent Hair Coloring Light Auburn 53

Why this choice suits this profile : This ready-to-mix kit is suitable for a first at-home auburn colouring treatment. Its formula is advertised as ammonia-free and its texture does not drip.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The product information specifies a development time of 25 minutes, increased to 35 minutes for resistant grey hair. This allows you to follow a precise process rather than extending the development time at random.

Main benefit and key features

Formula advertised as ammonia-free, with keratin and silk amino acids, plus a post-colouring treatment included.

Recommended for : Premium enthusiasts
L'Oréal Paris Hair Color Excellence 73 Golden Blonde

L'Oréal Paris Hair Color Excellence 73 Golden Blonde

Why this choice suits this profile : Its multi-step routine is aimed at people who want to include gentle cleansing and complete care in their blonde colouring routine.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The box separates the colouring cream, post-colouring shampoo and mask. This means each step can be followed as intended, without replacing the recommended treatment with an unsuitable product.

Main benefit and key features

Golden blonde shade, three-step care routine and advertised coverage of up to 100% of grey hair, according to the product information.

Recommended for : Specific uses and frequent users
Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance Clear 0-00 Tone on Tone Coloration 500ml

Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance Clear 0-00 Tone on Tone Coloration 500 ml

Why this choice suits this profile : This 500 ml bottle is primarily intended for people who are used to salon-style mixing or repeated applications, rather than first-time users without the right equipment.

How this product avoids the pitfall

This is an unpigmented formula designed to dilute a shade or create a glossy effect. It should therefore not be mistakenly bought as a covering colour to use on its own.

Main benefit and key features

500 ml format, the option to reduce a shade’s intensity and a glossy effect with an indicated development time of 5 to 20 minutes.

Recommended for : Quick touch-ups and targeted coverage
Cielo Hoyu Hair Coloring Cream EX 5RU Dark Violet Brown

Cielo Hoyu Hair Coloring Cream EX 5RU Dark Violet Brown

Why this choice suits this profile : The no-mix pump dispenser and the option to store unused product make it suitable for root touch-ups and short hair.

How this product avoids the pitfall

The pump dispenser helps minimise waste when applying the product partially. However, the instructions recommend using two boxes for long or thick hair.

Main benefit and key features

No-mix system, indicated development time of 15 minutes and a deep brown shade with ruby tones, according to the description.

Looking for more options ?

We have put together a complete, real-time updated selection of products that meet these strict criteria and European safety requirements.

Tips for successfully colouring your hair at home

Prepare the bathroom before opening the kit: have a dark towel, clips and a timer ready, and make sure the room is properly ventilated. Carry out the skin test according to the instructions, then protect the skin around your hairline with a towel or barrier cream, taking care not to get any on your hair.

To cover grey hair, generally start with the most resistant areas, in accordance with the product instructions. Never exceed the stated development time. After rinsing, use the post-colouring treatment supplied and avoid following it immediately with an overly harsh shampoo.

Frequently asked questions

How long does permanent hair colour last ?

The colour gradually fades as a result of washing, sunlight and heat, while regrowth eventually becomes visible. How long it lasts varies according to the shade, porosity and haircare routine. Some product pages claim up to eight weeks, but this is the manufacturer’s indication rather than a guarantee that applies to every head of hair.

Can permanent colour be applied over existing dye ?

Caution is advised. Permanent colour will not necessarily lighten lengths that have already been coloured. Check the instructions, especially if your hair has been treated with henna, gradual colour, a perm or a straightening treatment. Several products recommend waiting at least two weeks after a chemical treatment.

Is ammonia-free colour suitable for grey hair ?

It may be marketed for covering grey hair, as shown by some of the products in this selection. However, “ammonia-free” does not mean that there is no risk of an allergic reaction. The allergy alert test, carried out 48 hours before each application, remains essential whatever formula you choose.