If your fridge’s freezer compartment is no longer big enough, a chest freezer is a good choice for storing large quantities if you have floor space; an upright freezer makes food easier to access and organise. An under-counter model can provide extra capacity if you have a suitable space, while a large fridge-freezer is worth considering if you’re replacing your fridge as well. Compare freezer capacity, annual energy consumption, how long food stays frozen during a power cut and the temperature of the room where you plan to install it.
If your fridge-freezer’s compartment is no longer big enough for your shopping or the portions you want to freeze, compare the space you have at home with the capacity you need. A chest freezer has an open compartment, while an upright model lets you organise food across several sections.
If you often take food out of the freezer, look at how the drawers or shelves are arranged. Also consider the door opening, maintenance requirements and any alerts offered by the model you’re considering.
If you’re putting it in a cellar, utility room or unheated garage, check that the permitted ambient temperature range for the model covers the temperatures in that room. Climate class matters just as much as the space available.
Start by working out how much freezer capacity you need, then see how each format fits your available space and the way you access your food.
| Criteria | What to check | What suits my needs |
|---|---|---|
| Capacity and space | Compare the litres available for freezing, not the total capacity of a fridge-freezer. Measure the width and depth, the delivery route and the clearance needed to open the door or lid. UFC-Que Choisir says chest freezers can hold up to 600 L, while upright models generally offer around 200 L and can hold up to 400 L. | I want plenty of storage and have floor space: I could consider a chest freezer. If I’m replacing my fridge too, I’ll check the freezer capacity of the new fridge-freezer. |
| Access and maintenance | Check how the drawers, shelves or baskets are arranged to see whether they suit the size of the food you store. Check the defrosting system, door or lid opening and any alarms on the exact model. | If I often need to find small portions, I’d prefer to organise them in separate compartments. An open compartment might suit bulky packaging better, as long as I can keep everything organised. |
| Electricity | Compare kWh/year for appliances with a similar capacity and purpose. The European Commission uses an A to G efficiency scale on energy labels for household fridges and freezers; the rating doesn’t replace checking annual energy consumption. | I’m looking for enough capacity for my supplies without overlooking the energy use of an appliance that, as ADEME points out, runs continuously. |
| Power cuts and location | Compare how long each model is said to keep food frozen during a power cut. Also check its climate class and permitted ambient temperature range against the lowest and highest temperatures in the room. | If my freezer is far from the kitchen or installed in an outbuilding, I want to be able to check its temperature and make sure the room is suitable. |
| Under-counter installation | For a built-in appliance, measure the niche and check the ventilation clearances and door-opening direction specified for the model. Compare its freezer capacity with the amount of food you want to store. | I have space under a worktop and want extra capacity rather than a large freezer for the whole family. |
A large chest freezer takes up a lot of floor space, while a large upright model can be deep too. Capacity won’t tell you whether the appliance will fit through the door or whether you’ll have enough room to open it.
Measure the space and the delivery route. For a built-in appliance, also check the niche and clearances specified in the manual.
Climate class indicates the permitted ambient temperature range. Beko and Electrolux recommend checking that it’s suitable for the room; the low-temperature suitability advertised for some Beko models doesn’t apply to every freezer.
Check the room’s temperatures and compare them with the permitted range for the exact model before installing it in an outbuilding.
Two appliances with different capacities may not meet the same storage needs. Their efficiency rating on its own doesn’t tell you their annual energy consumption.
Check the model’s kWh/year and freezer capacity, then compare appliances designed for similar use.
How long an appliance keeps food frozen varies by model. UFC-Que Choisir’s testing protocol includes measuring how long food stays below −9 °C during a simulated power cut.
Compare the stated power-cut storage time for the models you’re considering and check whether there’s an alarm, especially if the appliance will be installed away from the rooms you use every day.
These examples show different formats and features to compare on specific models. They don’t necessarily apply to every model from each brand.
Chest freezers to consider if you’re planning to store supplies in a utility room, cellar or garage.
The GSN33VWEP is an example of an upright freezer whose specifications can help you refine your comparison criteria.
The WHFF 6403 W4E gives you an idea of how much space a large-capacity upright freezer needs.
The LUB3AE88S is an example of a built-in freezer for a specific kitchen space.
These models include a fridge-freezer if you’re replacing your fridge as well, chest freezers for extra separate storage and an upright freezer with compartments for organising your food.
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Worth considering if you’re replacing your fridge too: the 360 L refers to the advertised capacity of the whole appliance, not just the freezer. Total No Frost and energy class E are included in the product title; check the freezer capacity separately.
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This model offers 291 L of storage, with a separate compartment that opens from the top. It includes a removable basket and LED lighting. It’s described as convertible between fridge and freezer modes, with five-level digital controls; check the space it needs and the permitted ambient temperature range for your room.
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This chest freezer offers 197 L of separate storage. The product title mentions a removable basket, five-level digital controls and the option to switch between fridge and freezer modes; measure the space and check the installation requirements before buying.
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If you’re looking for a 141 L chest freezer rather than a large-capacity model, this one still opens from the top. It’s described as having a removable basket, a seven-level thermostat and the option to switch between fridge and freezer modes; check its dimensions and the permitted temperature range for your space.
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This 161 L model offers separate vertical storage, with three freezer drawers. The product title mentions No Frost, an alarm and energy class C; check its dimensions and how long it keeps food frozen during a power cut for your planned location.
Yes, as long as the model’s permitted ambient temperature range covers the temperatures the garage actually reaches. Check the climate class and the details for the exact model: Beko’s advertised low-temperature suitability for some ranges doesn’t apply to every freezer.
It helps you compare how well different models keep food frozen without a power supply. UFC-Que Choisir simulates a power cut in its tests and measures, among other things, how long food stays below −9 °C. Check the stated figure for each model and the conditions it applies to.
No. On models with this feature, the system is designed to limit frost build-up, but it doesn’t replace cleaning or the instructions in the manual about the door seal and ventilation.
Compare their annual energy consumption in kWh and their freezer capacity, ideally for appliances intended for similar use. ADEME points out that a freezer runs continuously; the A to G energy rating described by the European Commission provides another useful guide, but it doesn’t replace checking the model’s kWh/year.